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Walkaround, Service, and Maintenance Videos for your ATV
Thank you for your purchase of your ATV from us. Below are links to videos and our troubleshooting guide on our website. Please look at the information to be better informed on the service and maintenance of the ATV. Please look at all the videos before you pickup your ATV as you may have additional questions upon the date of pickup or purchase. Thank you.
Thank you for your purchase of your ATV from us. Below are links to videos and our troubleshooting guide on our website. Please look at the information to be better informed on the service and maintenance of the ATV. Please look at all the videos before you pickup your ATV as you may have additional questions upon the date of pickup or purchase. Thank you.
Little Notes:
1. You must use one of the brakes after turning the key on to start it.
2. You may have to choke it - the gold lever on the carb. Down is off, and Up is on. Choke it until it warms up enough or until it stalls out.
3. You get two keys, keep one key with the remote kill and give the child one. If the child loses his/hers, then you can make a copy at a hardware store or a lock shop.
4. Remember--ethanol-free gas.
5. Trickle charge the battery, at 2amps or below, every two weeks overnight or at least 4-6 hours.
6. Change the oil after the first oil and see change schedule below.
7. Keep the chain adjusted and lubed.
8. Check all nuts and bolts. Check tires and tighten as necessary and then put the hub caps on after the 4th oil change.
9. Remember--on a COLD engine, after the 4th oil change, gently snug the 4 head bolts and the two exhaust nuts with a #10 wrench.
1. You must use one of the brakes after turning the key on to start it.
2. You may have to choke it - the gold lever on the carb. Down is off, and Up is on. Choke it until it warms up enough or until it stalls out.
3. You get two keys, keep one key with the remote kill and give the child one. If the child loses his/hers, then you can make a copy at a hardware store or a lock shop.
4. Remember--ethanol-free gas.
5. Trickle charge the battery, at 2amps or below, every two weeks overnight or at least 4-6 hours.
6. Change the oil after the first oil and see change schedule below.
7. Keep the chain adjusted and lubed.
8. Check all nuts and bolts. Check tires and tighten as necessary and then put the hub caps on after the 4th oil change.
9. Remember--on a COLD engine, after the 4th oil change, gently snug the 4 head bolts and the two exhaust nuts with a #10 wrench.
REMEMBER: PLEASE USE ETHANOL-FREE GAS (IF NOT, AT LEAST USE SEAFOAM OR STABIL FUEL ADDITIVE WHICH YOU CAN BUY AT WALMART OR AN AUTO PARTS STORE AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE LABEL). Most of the smaller ATVs can only hold a half gallon of gas-so be careful not to over do it with fuel additive.
List of Ethanol-Free Gas Stations near you, click on the following link:
This below is on our website, talks about ethanol issues in small engines. Lots of pictures and a good read.
(Not on Youtube)
(Not on Youtube)
The link below will take you to our website directly: (I have specific links below that for certain things to assist you in maintenance.)
A brief walkaround the Model 3050c ATV.
Features are nearly identical to the 3125R and other models.
Features are nearly identical to the 3125R and other models.
Test driving a Model 3125R ATV below:
Test driving a Model 3125XR-8 below:
OIL CHANGE INFORMATION (BELOW):
****VERY IMPORTANT**** PLEASE WATCH THE VIDEO:
Remember-the ATVs/Dirtbikes comes with break-in oil. It is thinner than regular oil. After 1 (one) hour of riding time it should be changed. We use . (15-40w is recommended for diesel and small engines). Please do not put more than 7/10 (700ml) of a quart. . There is no filter to change. Remove the plug and drain the oil. Replace the plug and make sure you don't cross thread it. Remove the dipstick and add oil. Usually is plenty enough depending upon the model. Screw the dipstick all the way down and then remove it once again.
For 3125XR8-U and 3125CX-2 Models, you may have to use a #17 Crescent wrench to get the oil drain plug out.
For 3050C, 3125R, and Dirtbike Models, usually a 17mm socket and ratchet wrench is sufficient.
15-40W Conventional Oil (Yes, we know it is considered Diesel Engine Oil, it is also for small engines)
700ml (You will have 300ml left in the quart) Approx. 3/4 of a quart
NO SYNTHETICS/NO SEMI SYNTHETICS
15-40w Conventional Oil (NOT SYNTHETIC). The drain plug is a 17mm and is located near the dipstick, 7/10 quart (700ml) Don't overfill. When the oil reaches the ring on top of the diamonds on the dipstick, it is full.
1st Oil Change - after the first hour of riding time.
2nd Oil Change - after the next 8 hours of riding time
3rd Oil Change - after the next 16 hours of riding time.
4th Oil Change and thereafter - after the next 32 hours of riding time.
***NOTE: FOR 150cc ATV, Gokarts, and Scooters, THE OIL REQUIREMENTS ARE DIFFERENT-USUALLY REQUIRING 900 to 1000ml of oil.)
****VERY IMPORTANT**** PLEASE WATCH THE VIDEO:
Remember-the ATVs/Dirtbikes comes with break-in oil. It is thinner than regular oil. After 1 (one) hour of riding time it should be changed. We use . (15-40w is recommended for diesel and small engines). Please do not put more than 7/10 (700ml) of a quart. . There is no filter to change. Remove the plug and drain the oil. Replace the plug and make sure you don't cross thread it. Remove the dipstick and add oil. Usually is plenty enough depending upon the model. Screw the dipstick all the way down and then remove it once again.
For 3125XR8-U and 3125CX-2 Models, you may have to use a #17 Crescent wrench to get the oil drain plug out.
For 3050C, 3125R, and Dirtbike Models, usually a 17mm socket and ratchet wrench is sufficient.
15-40W Conventional Oil (Yes, we know it is considered Diesel Engine Oil, it is also for small engines)
700ml (You will have 300ml left in the quart) Approx. 3/4 of a quart
NO SYNTHETICS/NO SEMI SYNTHETICS
15-40w Conventional Oil (NOT SYNTHETIC). The drain plug is a 17mm and is located near the dipstick, 7/10 quart (700ml) Don't overfill. When the oil reaches the ring on top of the diamonds on the dipstick, it is full.
1st Oil Change - after the first hour of riding time.
2nd Oil Change - after the next 8 hours of riding time
3rd Oil Change - after the next 16 hours of riding time.
4th Oil Change and thereafter - after the next 32 hours of riding time.
***NOTE: FOR 150cc ATV, Gokarts, and Scooters, THE OIL REQUIREMENTS ARE DIFFERENT-USUALLY REQUIRING 900 to 1000ml of oil.)
IF YOU REMOVE THE WRONG PLUG THINKING IT WAS THE DRAIN PLUG (Please Watch Video):
Lubing and Adjusting Your Chain (see video below):
The chain will have to be adjusted and lubed from time to time. Inexpensive chain lube from Walmart is fine. These are normal maintenance things. This videos are to assist you with this routine procedure. It is hard to say when you will have to adjust the chain--it depends upon the rider's weight, jerky rides, and terrain. It will stretch and stretching is normal but when the stretch is over an inch, it is time to adjust it. The measurement is taken on the center of the chain at the bottom.
*Make sure you loosen your hub bolt/nuts well. If not, you will strip your chain adjusters.
Also make sure you perform the procedure in a symmetric fashion.
The chain will have to be adjusted and lubed from time to time. Inexpensive chain lube from Walmart is fine. These are normal maintenance things. This videos are to assist you with this routine procedure. It is hard to say when you will have to adjust the chain--it depends upon the rider's weight, jerky rides, and terrain. It will stretch and stretching is normal but when the stretch is over an inch, it is time to adjust it. The measurement is taken on the center of the chain at the bottom.
*Make sure you loosen your hub bolt/nuts well. If not, you will strip your chain adjusters.
Also make sure you perform the procedure in a symmetric fashion.
BATTERY CARE/Charging and Maintenance:
The battery needs to be charged at least every 2 weeks even though it is not dead. Never jumpstart nor quickboost your battery. Only trickle charge with a 2amp or below charger. When the acid cools in the battery over time, it forms crystals in the cells making bad cells. A slow charge heats the acid and moves it to prevent this from happening. These little ATVs do not have alternators. They do not charge themselves!!!!
NEVER JUMPSTART OR QUICK START YOUR ATV. Remember, these are small batteries, they are 12 volt but only 4-5 amps. NEVER, NEVER EVER jump start or quick boost your ATV. Remember, we do not accept checks and CC or Debit cards require a 5% surcharge.
The battery needs to be charged at least every 2 weeks even though it is not dead. Never jumpstart nor quickboost your battery. Only trickle charge with a 2amp or below charger. When the acid cools in the battery over time, it forms crystals in the cells making bad cells. A slow charge heats the acid and moves it to prevent this from happening. These little ATVs do not have alternators. They do not charge themselves!!!!
NEVER JUMPSTART OR QUICK START YOUR ATV. Remember, these are small batteries, they are 12 volt but only 4-5 amps. NEVER, NEVER EVER jump start or quick boost your ATV. Remember, we do not accept checks and CC or Debit cards require a 5% surcharge.
CHECKING YOUR IN LINE SURGE FUSE
When you try to turn on the ATV and start it, you don't get any sound, not even a click, then it is your fuse/or the starter is jammed, or the start switch assembly is faulty. See the video below: If the ATV clicks, or if you have any lights (brake lights or indicator lights), then it is not the fuse.
When you try to turn on the ATV and start it, you don't get any sound, not even a click, then it is your fuse/or the starter is jammed, or the start switch assembly is faulty. See the video below: If the ATV clicks, or if you have any lights (brake lights or indicator lights), then it is not the fuse.
CHECKING FOR SPARK
(DO AT YOUR OWN RISK-WE ASSUME NO LIABILITY WHATSOEVER:
FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY)
When you cannot start the vehicle, only after all other checks have failed as in the following (the vehicle will make sound as if starter is turning, but will not fire up):
1. Key switch in "On" position.
2. Kill switch on handlebar is in "Run" position.
3. Remote kill switch "Unlock" (Black) button is depressed with key switch in "On" position.
4. Battery charged and checked.
5. Inline fuse check (usually you will not get any sound when fuse is dislocated or blown).
CAN BE DANGEROUS. GREAT CAUTION ADVISED. ONLY GIVEN FOR DEMONSTRATIONAL PURPOSES. WE ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE AS A RESULT OF THIS TEST.
If the battery is fully charged, and all the other items are above have been done, you will need to check for spark which can be dangerous to those who have never performed such a procedure or for those individuals are chronically inhibited by the fear of the unknown or for those who suffer from an anxiety disorder. Either way, we cannot suggest nor advise you to perform such a spark check but the method will be provided to you and we bear no liable for your following the steps even as spelled out which may injure you, others, your property, and the vehicle:
(Never smoke or have an open flame around the area in which you are working in and around) and have your work area
free of hazards of all types and do not allow children to be in your work area for their safety as well as yours. Eye protection and other personal attire is suggested.
IF THERE IS ANY GAS OR FLAMMABLE MATERIAL WHATSOEVER AROUND YOUR AREA OR ON YOUR PERSON, CLOTHES, OR ON THE ENGINE, NEVER, AND I REPEAT, NEVER ATTEMPT THIS!!!!!
STEPS TO CHECK FOR SPARK:
a. Lock the front brake.
b. Remove the spark plug.
c. Place the plug back in the boot as if it were in the engine.
d. Grasp the plastic part of the boot with one hand (Never the metal part or the plug itself).
e. Locate a good metal bolt on the frame or engine.
f. Place the electrodes (the head of the plug) on the bolt you located in "e" above.
g. With the other hand, press the start button. (Or have someone else press the button for you.)
Now, do you see spark going across the plug and bolt? If so, it is probably not an electrical issue. I said "Probably Not" I didn't say "Definitely Not."
At this point, replace the plug back in the engine and attach the spark plug boot correctly and then your concentration should go back to the Carb/Fuel Sections.
(DO AT YOUR OWN RISK-WE ASSUME NO LIABILITY WHATSOEVER:
FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY)
When you cannot start the vehicle, only after all other checks have failed as in the following (the vehicle will make sound as if starter is turning, but will not fire up):
1. Key switch in "On" position.
2. Kill switch on handlebar is in "Run" position.
3. Remote kill switch "Unlock" (Black) button is depressed with key switch in "On" position.
4. Battery charged and checked.
5. Inline fuse check (usually you will not get any sound when fuse is dislocated or blown).
CAN BE DANGEROUS. GREAT CAUTION ADVISED. ONLY GIVEN FOR DEMONSTRATIONAL PURPOSES. WE ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE AS A RESULT OF THIS TEST.
If the battery is fully charged, and all the other items are above have been done, you will need to check for spark which can be dangerous to those who have never performed such a procedure or for those individuals are chronically inhibited by the fear of the unknown or for those who suffer from an anxiety disorder. Either way, we cannot suggest nor advise you to perform such a spark check but the method will be provided to you and we bear no liable for your following the steps even as spelled out which may injure you, others, your property, and the vehicle:
(Never smoke or have an open flame around the area in which you are working in and around) and have your work area
free of hazards of all types and do not allow children to be in your work area for their safety as well as yours. Eye protection and other personal attire is suggested.
IF THERE IS ANY GAS OR FLAMMABLE MATERIAL WHATSOEVER AROUND YOUR AREA OR ON YOUR PERSON, CLOTHES, OR ON THE ENGINE, NEVER, AND I REPEAT, NEVER ATTEMPT THIS!!!!!
STEPS TO CHECK FOR SPARK:
a. Lock the front brake.
b. Remove the spark plug.
c. Place the plug back in the boot as if it were in the engine.
d. Grasp the plastic part of the boot with one hand (Never the metal part or the plug itself).
e. Locate a good metal bolt on the frame or engine.
f. Place the electrodes (the head of the plug) on the bolt you located in "e" above.
g. With the other hand, press the start button. (Or have someone else press the button for you.)
Now, do you see spark going across the plug and bolt? If so, it is probably not an electrical issue. I said "Probably Not" I didn't say "Definitely Not."
At this point, replace the plug back in the engine and attach the spark plug boot correctly and then your concentration should go back to the Carb/Fuel Sections.
THANKS,
James L. Brunet,
President,Manager
R/R Sports International, Inc. d.b.a.
Blaze Powersports and Outdoors
9727 Cameron Street - PO Box 525,
Duson, LA 70529-0525
Ph: (337) 873-5511
Fax: Same
For Pics or Text Messages: 1-337-873-1ATV (1288)